The bitoque is a safe haven. Its origins are unknown, but it is believed to have been brought to Lisbon by a Galician, just like many other dishes that have become local favourites and restaurants that have become institutions. It's always on the menu of any Lisbon tasca and is reliable when all else fails, or there’s nothing else appealing to you. When in doubt, order the bitoque.The bitoque is intended to be cheap – between €6 and €11 at most – and unpretentious. The beef cut is neither noble nor elitist – topside or rump, preferably tenderised with a mallet, but if you’re feeling wild, the top loin is accepted. It shouldn't be grilled but fried in a three-fat sauce: olive oil, lard and butter, bay leaves and lots of garlic.

The fries and egg are mandatory, but the rice is negotiable, depending on the customer's choice. It's a democratic dish, a comfort food, the antithesis of diets and the best friend of hangovers."

Copy: Inês Matos Andrade